In Marmaris in Marmaris, Troll has quietly done with the laughter of children:
a ride
a tour of the Aegean in the clockwise we can be discovered in two chapters:
From Marmaris to the south Porto Heli
From Porto Heli in Marmaris on the north
houses of pastel Liguria, dripping from the hills to the banks of Gialos, long sob mourning her dead on the absurd. It is May 8 65 years ago the German armies of occupation of the Dodecanese signed their surrender by Gialos port of Simi, here as elsewhere. Representatives of all the islands, notable officers of the Army or Navy to succeed wreath laying under the protective eye of priests-bishops, inevitable presence in any formal event or party Hellenic. The crowd hitherto accepted, silent and restless and applauds an old man comes forward, right, rigid, closed and facies deposited his sheaf thinking intently to all his friends disappeared presqu'adolescents. Military music comes to life, the Marine riflemen parade, children following schools, school boys, school girls, dark blue trousers or skirt, white shirt.
Today we commemorate the absurdity.
Commemoration
insensitive to history, insensitive to time are eternal odors blue tufts of thyme, oregano and white flowers, the small shrimp Symi soaked a few seconds in hot oil flavored, crunchy and melts in the mouth with a hint of spicy flavor.
Sur les vestiges d’un chantier naval jadis prospère, quelques coques abandonnées, d’autres en réfection rappellent très timidement qu’il y a un peu plus d’un siècle sortaient annuellement des cales des chantiers de l’île plus de 500 bateaux à voiles de commerce. Symi, Hydra, Galaxidi, même histoire : tués par la marine à vapeur.
Simi
Troll oscille au mouillage face au monastère endormi de Panormitis. Le grand désert de la mi-journée. Pas tout à fait. Au fond du petit magasin de bondieuseries, un homme somnole en faisant machinalement osciller his "baby Jesus" asleep. "Hush! "And he left his shop to avoid waking the cherub. "Kalimera! "Kalimera! "Is it possible to visit the monastery church to admire the miraculous icon of Saint Michael? (What bustles!) "It's closed until 17 hours but I'll open." The heavy key squeaks and 4 miscreants engulfed in a world of icons, frescoes, comics telling the life of Christ (do not forget that literacy is the good people recently. The comic, everyone understands) . From the ceiling hang tamata many ex-voto shaped arms, legs and of course, gold and silver vessels that recall a again that the prevailing feeling in the heart of the storm was always scared. Deep throne silver icon of St. Michael, which made portable lamp icon next to the legend, all alone, many back and forth between Gialos and Panormitis until the day when construction of the monastery dedicated to the archangel was decided . It is said that even if you throw into the sea anywhere in the world, a bottle with a message for Michel "Hi Michael ... what do you become so. "And although this bottle will inevitably run aground Panormitis. Everything is certainly true if one considers the countless pilgrims who come to pray every year.
Panormitis
Alimnia and Khalki
Alimnia
Alimnia Island deserted, deserted island.
In 1975 HM Denham reported another 25 people in the little hamlet that offers today's open houses for the few scattered furniture, beds smashed, tables and chairs sort-jambistes, an oven where it is presqu'étonné not find any nice hot loaves, an unusual chapel at lock "tied" which still seems sometimes visited, recently burned candles, plate filled with small items - recollection of the descendants.
Alimnia, deserted village
Farther two barracks that housed homeless of troops of the Wehrmacht, dominated in every sense of the term "villa" of the officer. Mein Liebling, we are approaching a year since I left you for joining this assignment Alimnia, a magnificent red rocks, pine forests and olive groves. Given my terrace the sun transforms the stones of the old medieval castle perched on mountain glowing embers. Mein Liebling, when we win this war, we will return to this place, so desolate without you.
dein Hans
Alimnia Juni 1942
A description of garrison life on the island, barter with the locals who provide eggs, dairy and vegetables.
Night falls on wetting desert. No noise, no light, just the quiet passing of time.
Khalki Five miles is the twin sister of Alimnia which, with its 300 inhabitants is contained metropolis. "Blue, blue sky of Proveeeeeence. Blue, white village Nimporio - Khalki port. Homes white blue umbrellas, white and blue flag. A blue and white metropolis has offered beautiful brand new pontoons, dancing Sirtaki in a friendly less choppy. Electrical terminals? Certainly! Connected? Nay Sir!
In the early 20 th Khalki century lived on sponge fishing and shrimp, the model Symi, you still drool. Today in Khalki, arrive frozen shrimp from Southeast Asia and finish their careers are all soft in the middle of a rice overcooked. And then, as often, misery inspires adventure. Almost all inhabitants emigrated to Florida to seek his fortune. You see? Something like "Dimitris is located in Miami and is a billionaire! "What? That fool Dimitris? "So we all share! "Today, some descendants are coming home and fixed up the house of the ancestors, mixed with other lovers of old stones from Northern Europe. Gradually, the waterfront becomes as smart at the time of shipping. A beautiful building in Venetian style, patiently awaits a buyer, but no! it would not be reasonable!
Khalki
Karpathos
Small mythological tale for good children
Zeus child gave a lot of worry to his mother Rhea . In short, Zeus was an ugly kid. One day, Rhea explained by simplifying much of the original his family and complicated ramifications. The story of his brother Hades, the great patron of the kingdom of the dead and especially fascinated her dog Cerberus. You pensez, un chien à trois têtes, voilà de quoi enflammer l’imagination du petit Zeus. Dès le lendemain il décide de faire une blague à l’affreux clébard. Avec de l’argile il se met à façonner un énorme os, bien sûr énorme puisque c’est Zeus qui le fabrique. Une fois le travail achevé, le voici qui appelle : « Cerbère, Cerbère, gentil toutou, regarde le beau nonos que gentil Zeus a préparé pour toi » Cerbère sort une tête, puis deux, puis trois. Six yeux exorbités fixent ce futur festin. Zeus brandit l’os, le fait tournoyer et le lance loin, très loin vers la mer Egée. Cerbère bondit dans le ciel et trois salivating jaws close on the projectile bone. But the prey escapes him too heavy and just sink into the sea in a terrible noise. The island of Karpathos was born. And if you look closely at a map of the island you'll still distinctly three bites of Cerberus, the northern one has even created the island of Sabia.
Well, okay it's mythology a little farfetched, but that does not tell us about these little ones to sleep.
Karpathos scrolls on our starboard, red rock dotted with pine trees, set on a sea smoothed to spatula. The stem Pigadia hesitates between the main port of the island, and Diafani, a tiny port in the north. It is ultimately the battery of the generator which is showing signs of slowing worthy of Violetta decides the choice of destination: this will Pigadia. Soon looming port, built in the southeast Bay ering. Troll spends his nose between two piers: docks for commercial vessels, wharf boats reserved for players of tourists, an indoor pool filled with fishing boats. Wharf free lines are launched with two fishermen. Troll is docked. "Kalimera" Do you speak English? " No! Greek! "Replied the fisherman. The Captain then launched into a conversation half dumb half onomatopoeia: "Battery Pfffff ... .... Kaput ... Three rumblings later a rickety pickup truck takes the Captain to the north, toward Mecca of new batteries. The fisherman in eloquent gestures apologizes to feel the fish, after all normal for a fisherman. The battery purchased, the seller Anglophone states "Do not give anything above the angler, it would upset" Simply the solidarity of the sea, and the conversation resumed its gestural way on the way home. And if an obscure point, no problem, And the brakes are planted they roared "Maria! Maria leaves its bistro and translated. "Poly Efcharisto Maria! .
The new battery is too low to start the generator capacity. No problem. While the platform is already informed. The solution is set up. A former commander of the merchant involved, brought in an electro-mechanical giant pot-bellied, shaven head, the eternal smile, mono-glottis, delighted to visit the depths of troll who, after a "Kalo" sounding a diagnosis without appeal, pointing to the battery, "Micro! "And exits. The commander informed that the giant will be back in 15 minutes with a battery worthy of the name. Fifteen minutes later the new battery is in position. Problem solved. In Greece, no marina that works, no hardware stores but resourcefulness and solidarity foolproof. The commander does not fail to give us two cards: a car rental company not to mention his nephew, of course, the best restaurant Pigadia. A nephew more American than Greek, but fortunately for most Greek cuisine American.
Karpathos, the commercial port
La route accrochée à la roche rouge ondule en 3D entre pins et lauriers roses. Trois à quatre cent mètres plus bas la belle bleue est aujourd’hui un pastel estompé de brumes légères. Une piste prend le relai en direction d’Olympos ce village isolé où peu de choses ont paraît-il changé depuis l’époque médiévale. Mais ce village préservé sait se faire désirer. A la sortie d’un virage, plus de piste. Disparu, un tronçon d’une centaine de mètres, taillé dans la roche friable a décidé de se laissé glisser le long des pentes abruptes. Des bulldozers et des camions s’affairent. De loin Olympos nous crie « Revenez demain ! ».
Leucadius small creek fishing port natural minimalist. Some boats hanging from the dock waving colorful. Off the sea dark blue speckled with white. A handful of homes and taverns. Andros and his wife, both American-Greek Baltimore - "The biggest aquarium in the world! "- We feast on fish cakes, croquettes of zucchini and make us discover the caper leaves sour. Small blue chairs mulched, translucent turquoise water are never tired.
Levkos
Yet so calm, wearing Pigadia bristles at night with a wicked chop that makes his dancing Troll cons commercial wharf rough. The beautiful protective covers for fenders, knitted in the suburbs of Shanghai by Miss Li démaillent gradually. Aided by the Captain of the boat nearby shopping, Troll pulls aggression mineral. New mooring in the lee of another pier. Cap on Olympos. Cape road course.
The track is again "practicable." The hundred meters have been replaced missing a string of three meters wide cut the cliff fragile. On the left wall disintegrating ready to collapse on the runway right edge of the unstabilized three hundred feet of sheer drop. Funny, nobody talks in the car. Three pairs of eyes are closed, a couple wide open. Hundred meters further four "Pffffff .... "Spontaneously exhale. Olympos suddenly appears at the end of a turn, white, tumbling down the mountain. Mixture of modern and medieval houses, barely maintained, support each nestling against each other in a maze of stairs and narrow alleys. Women still wear traditional dress: white trousers and tunic embroidered with flowers, but often the gift shop is not far off when presented embroideries made by the same Miss Li
road to Olympos
More road!
Olympos
Olympiad
This time at daybreak Troll likes to do the yo-yo, trying to complete the unwinding of covers fenders. Apparatus. Troll goes to his third Pigadia anchorage, the tiny "Marina," the "marina" local. Troll plays big buttocks, pushing her little brothers who kindly depart because they know that the next day the wind will not fall and 25 knots sweep the harbor.
Karpathos, the mini-marina
Kasos
If Karpathos is outside the traditional tourist routes, the island had Kasos simply be forgotten cards.
Casé à Kasos
Ici on se doit d’accueillir l’étranger qui arrive, l’étranger qui fait l’honneur de s’arrêter, l’étranger qui a pris la peine de s’éloigner des sentiers balisés pour venir dire bonjour. Derrière la jetée du port de pêche de Fry, l’alignement ininterrompu des superstructures des pointus colorés ne présagent pas beaucoup de place pour y glisser Troll. Soudain un pêcheur agite les bras et désigne son bateau. Propose-t-il une place à couple ? Non, il appareille. Il ne part pas pêcher il laisse sa place et vient se placer le long de la jetée à l’extérieur port. Two other fishermen moved two other boats releasing some twenty meters from shore. Troll is aware of the hospitality of Kasos. On the other side of the pier, the young fisherman, re-moored seaward ponytail in the wind quietly unravels his net. In our "Efcharisto Poly answered with a smile and a wave of his hand.
is the mid-day. The village houses white cubic dozed by opening one eye at each peal of bells from the church who fled blue sky. The inner basin, harbor Lilliputian original is so small that it was hard to imagine how Denham has managed to get his 13-meter ketch. After all Troll is back in the marina Etzergom Attila in Hungary.
By discovering with astonishment at the bend of a road, a small airport we realize that Kasos has not been completely forgotten. One flight per week than twenty minutes from Rhodes. But for now it seems confidential.
Milos we cook the traditional shrimp Symi and a stew of cuttlefish and then released her computer to show us pictures of the Christmas 2006 storm and huge waves that swept the harbor. That's why today a huge construction work was undertaken when the concrete tetrapods entangled, protectors.
The Crete
Harmony and Chaos
the beginning was Chaos. The universe was born convulsions and continued disruption, time there not, Nyx, the night reigned everywhere, ad infinitum. The Big Bang is mythological in the making. Chaos, the god of the world began, begat Gaia, the earth, broad and strong support of all things. Gaia and in turn bore, Cronos, the great ruler of the time, a concept very difficult to design for a god by nature immortal. Because for living immortality, what meaning can be past, present and future?
At the time, the number of players is very limited, Cronos married his sister Rhea, who hastened to many children. But his mother was Gaia warned "One of your son dethrone you! "Very annoying to be stolen his throne when it is hopeful to reign for eternity! Cronus therefore begins to eat all newborns despite the entreaties of Lady Rhea. At the 7 th pregnancy Rhea decides to save her child, fled to Crete and gave birth in the depths of a cave deep moss green and wet, a charming toddler divine at the instant it appoints Zeus with ease. The great leader was born and under his leadership, Chaos was able to finally make way for the Cosmos to Harmony.
Harmony and beauty of the world and took possession of Crete was the model.
Here the reader realizes that the author has finally landed on his feet: the story can finally continue in Crete.
gradually became peopled Gaia, the Titans and Heroes firstly that soon made way for normal people, people like you and me. Zeus and ensured the harmony of all these people who cohabited with the surface of Gaia. When he was young, on a beach in northern Crete, Zeus the little fun throwing rocks into the sea and to ricochets. Today these stones still remember this feat. They are called the Cyclades, Dodecanese and Sporades. But his favorite is and always his native island of Crete.
Thus Harmony seized Crete.
frescoed Palace refined hieroglyphic pastel colored pieces of pageantry and parties bristling columns reddened by the murex Phoenician carved alabaster vases, other vessels carved from quartz beads adorned with ivory and gold, cut head bull Soapstone horned gold, pottery decorated with octopus, sea urchins, flowers, feathers or leaves, goddess topless brandishing snakes lucky beauties piled ...!
Cnosos repainted by Evans
Cnosos, the throne room
Malia
Zakros
Zakros Malia, Knossos, Phaistos and trading exchange along roads paved with basalt. No need for speakers, ramparts or battlements: harmony reigns. Zeus watch! Or at least ensure Zeus believes because that's not counting on his son Hephaestus who was over the head of the authoritarian father "Made it! Done that! And one day the young Hephaestus, recently promoted to god of fire and blacksmiths, decides to take revenge on the father omnipotent and hit where it hurts: in Crete. The ugly kid starts the great forge of Santorini asks his cousin Aeolus blowing, and still breathe. The forge Santorini, white-hot bursts, releasing a massive wave which, like a galloping horse takes the direction of Crete. It was the end of beauty and harmony Minoan. The wave overwhelmed all the cities, the heat wave completed the destruction. The art gave way to nature, the survivors were happy to settle for an ordinary everyday areas.
But the eternal struggle between Chaos and Harmony endures and is still breathing in the 21 th new century.
Harmony remains of these wonderful cities destroyed where one imagines, at the time of sunset shadows heighten the walls amputees, where the stacks stony take human or animal forms: the city for a fleeting moment back to life.
Harmony verdant countryside punctuated by low walls, pictures of rock-pickers fields by centuries of sweat.
Harmony's attachment to the land.
Harmony Centennial Manolis who carves his or thousandth millionth tablespoon olive wood. Well ... he does not know.
Manolis and his millionth spoon
's wife who watches Manolis grain
Harmony preserved by the relief ungrateful, deep ravines, narrow gorges where burrow small villages ageless storied as the beads of a rosary along the mule track.
And Zeus beheld his inner Crest and was happy.
Bay Spinalonga
Cretan Gorges: the delight of hikers
La Canée
Mais cette Harmonie déplaisait à Chaos, le grand-père insupportable qui décida de faire de la côte son domaine. Alors déferla sur cette côte, sur cet ancien paradis Minoen, le Chaos moderne à la grande joie du premier des dieux : béton anarchique, urbanisme sauvage, alignements de parasols sur des plages-rôtissoires pour nordiques, pour l’instant encore rose car fraichement déversé mais bientôt rôtis à point, fast food « à la grecque », discos kitchs, enseignes « Guinness » ou « Irish Stout ». La jeunesse de Dublin, de Liverpool ou de Manchester est heureuse : soleil le jour, décibels la nuit ! « Where have you been? » « I think it was Greece, as we changed flight in Athens! » .
Heureuse la jeunesse, Chaos est ravi.
Chaos-Harmonie, le combat n’est pas prêt de cesser.
Cythère
Droit devant l’étrave, se profile la masse de Cythère débordée par un gros rocher en forme de pain de sucre, la version egéenne du Diamant martiniquais. On se prend à rêver que de l’eau bouillonne écumante libérant Aphrodite, la déesse de la beauté et de l’amour. Mais comment naître de l’écume de la mer vous demandez-vous ? Et bien, c’est très simple. On s’appelle Cronos et on prend le temps de couper les parties génitales de son père, à la demande de sa mère it is true, and throw them into the sea it floats, it bubbles, foam, and it sprang Aphrodite. Simple, right? Simply belonging to a normal family. Botticelli Venus-Aphrodite was placed in a shell Saint-Jacques, the story of testicles into the sea does not at all pleasant to the Vatican. Troll, all excited looking for a favorable anchorage. Chalkis Aviemonas and are excluded by the lack of wind from southwest to benefit Diakofti windy roads but well protected from rough seas. Diakofti: a ferry wharf, a few scattered houses. How to visit the island from the desert area. As for the birth of Aphrodite, this is straightforward. Materials needed: a pair of binoculars. On the platform, a green sign "Rent a Car" associated with telephone number. "We are Diakofti boat, is it possible to rent a car for the day? "You see the green car in the placard? It is open and the keys are under the carpet. Take the car and you come to sign the contract by moving to Chalkis. And voila! A Greek! No contract, no name given. You take the car and you go away. "It's not easy-ty like this?? . An hour later, toward the center of the island, a car passes us and makes sign of stopping. It is our landlord. Tightening labor "Welcome to Kythera! . On the hood of the car quickly filled the contract is "a good visit to the island! . A Chalkis rise of the Venetian fortress, Magos lunch at which, as stated here does not cook but miracles. Normal, Magos mean magician. Undulating landscape of scrubland interspersed with land enclosed by walls, ancient mounds. Miniature fishing ports.
Diakofti
Kapsali
Kythera is not always the place of harmony, beauty and love. On the beach lies a broken bird, sail a dozen meters, cracked, cracked, abandoned looted. Here is his story. In 2007 some shady smugglers steal a boat on the Turkish coast and "load" 42 illegal immigrants from Iraq and Afghanistan. Yes you read forty-two miserable way to Europe, the promised land on a crowded boat of 12m. At current fuel, the boat stopped at Kythera. Police intervention. Arrests. Five months before the boat will remain docked at the ferry dock. One day Large storm let go the moorings and the boat is thrown at the foot of the cliff.
Like what the intervention of Aphrodite is not systematic.
Peloponnese
Polynesia approach with its inevitable white sand beaches and pink, Elephonisos, parcel of Tuamotous strayed south of the Peloponnese. Everything there is even a grain tropical Stalinization, which falls on Troll flattening the sea begins to boil under aqueous impacts. Fish alerted by the noise coming see what happens on the surface. A nice albacore tuna a meter, curious, sees pass before him a beautiful multicolored small squid that is quick to swallow. Alas for him in the end there was a squid hook after hook, fifty meters of wire, preceded by a fishing rod on which Alain bow down incendiary. Albacore poor, the struggle was unequal. 18 slices in the freezer that is your destiny today.
Elephonisos
The rain and the sky low and gray colors were blurred. Desires bathing are up to the desires of soup. Goodbye Tuamotous, heading for the medieval Monemvasia.
The "marina" is a distant memory. Missing, floating docks, mooring chains pulled their unmaintained away by a few winter storms. Sole survivor, a concrete pier along which a line of boats are lined up against the flamboyant rock-fortress of Monemvasia. Troll spotted a hole, just the kind of place where a smart one wants to park a Volvo station wagon. "Please forward or back your boat for 2 or three meters" No problem! "Troll is a niche worthy Review of driving under the eye of a family of turtles Garetta-Garetta intrigued by this strange boat without sail.
Monemvasia, a kind of model in 1 / 3 of the Rock of Gibraltar, naturally fortified site, protected by cliffs over 200 meters. The Franks made it into a port on the way to Palestine, the Byzantine port of trade between the western Mediterranean and Constantinople, the Ottomans and the Venetians are disputed, again Turkish eventually became Greek in 1821 and tourism ... in 1970. The alternating stereotyped in the region.
The lower town, aujourd’hui sauvée par la réhabilitation des anciennes maisons par des Athéniens ou des Européens du nord séduits par le charme du site. Et Catherine dit une fois de plus au Captain qui médite devant quatre murs lézardés : « Non, ce ne serait pas raisonnable ! ». Ville basse pour la bourgeoisie et le menu peuple, ville haute pour la noblesse et les ecclésiastiques. La ville haute ça se mérite- Rues et escaliers pavés de longues dalles lissées par les siècles, serpentent à flan de falaise sous le soleil de juin. Près du sommet, Sainte Sophie, Sofia, la déesse de la sagesse des anciens, bien trop sage pour se jeter dans le vide tentateur. « Gente dame, nous cherchons the house of the Lord of Villehardouin ... "" You see the castle at the top? Well this is! A liter of sweat later our four adventurers contemplating as before Sir William, on both sides of the isthmus, the two natural ports north and south of the city. No galleon, no aisle, no hassle. And yet, close your eyes, yes, yes, they are all there at anchor.
And continuing the dream it seems that William calls us "Will you take a glass of Malmsey? . Unfortunately this is only a dream and the grape produces this delicious sweet white wine, so Jurançon Greek now completely disappeared. To drink Malvasia must go into the Valais and northern Italy. It's so good in 1477, the Duke of Clarence, who was sentenced to death by her brother Edward VII and questioned about the form of his execution asked to be drowned in a butt of Malmsey.
Monenvasia
The Peloponnese is a hand without a thumb or finger. The key? It Mani. Arid, windswept, wild region in the image of its famous inhabitants for their bravery, their spirit of independence madman - the Turks were never able to completely fill this region - and their propensity for blood feuds between clans. The genus Corsica "Do not touch my sister! "The abrupt nature is reflected in the architecture, bristling with tower houses the small square windows rather deadly when one presses his gun to a box on the neighbors of an enemy clan. Enemy for so long that we do not even know why. Narrow roads, winding discovering jagged headlands, cliffs, jagged rocks chaotic. In the middle emerge from the desert, unusual and smiling a little port where the anchovies are so good grilled.
The Magne a little Yemenite
The family welcomes caretta-caretta Troll leaving Monenvasia by gray skies and gray sea and continues his slow pursuit of the north.
A piece of wharf at the foot of a white chapel, a few fishing boats: Greece-postcard. The anchor fits into the flush water of a net that closes a portion of the loop. Across the bay at the foot of the circus mounting Kiparissis white spot in the light background plant. Today all is harmony. 15 years ago it was chaos: the captain struggled facing a crisis of colic while the nearby restaurant flew a chant anachronistic Ottoman women. A melodramatic duet ...
Kiparisi
is the last stage of our brave and faithful friends, teammates La Rochelle: a last swim in the bay called inevitable " La Bergerie "where throne on a hill dotted with straw yellow and green olives, these four walls once coveted. A pilgrimage to some extent.
Troll and the fold
